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Archive for August, 2008

Escape

At the end of July, my partner and I journeyed East, on a much needed vacation, seeking adventure, inspiration and a reconnection with family members far from my everyday stomping grounds. Our journey began in Vermont, ended in New York City and our experiences were as varied as those two extremes.


Vermont - Bread & Puppet

Self-described as “Cheap Art and Political Theater in Vermont,” Bread & Puppet in Glover provided a truly unique experience, far outside the bounds of traditional art appreciation. Upon entering Bread & Puppet, you are greeted by a broken-down Kesey-styled bus that contained a free art museum full of self published “zines,” the usual slew of anti-war/bush/capitalism posters, and other found art masterpieces.
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You pass by a large, standalone brick oven that on any given day produces several freshly baked loaves of sourdough bread. Then you enter the main building, an ancient barn, a piece of art within itself, that housed the puppet museum.

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These puppets are unlike any puppets I have ever seen, and in no way resemble the sock or paper bag variety. These “puppets” are huge - some 40 ft tall - mystical paper mache creatures, draped heavily in colorful fabrics and meticulously painted. We walked among the aisles of puppets resembling the founding fathers, scenes from fairy tales, nightmares and religious figures. While many puppets are now out of commission, there are still an active group performing their colorful political theater weekly for a growing captive audience. Sourdough philosophy circus & pageant, you cant get more interesting than that.

Montreal
We left the back country of the Northeast Kingdom and ventured out of the US - north to Quebec - to scope out our friendly French Canadian neighbors. After a short drive we were deep in the heart of Montreal, walking through the cobblestone streets of Old Town. Old Montreal has the feel of Europe with its enormous gothic Notre Dame catherdral, sidewalk cafes, carriage rides and of course, the rich French language. Although steeped in history, Montreal emits a distinctly modern and progressive flair with its carless street (Aires Libres), gay district (the village), and flair for design.
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Our goal was to fit in with the locals and not look like tourists, which was immediately shot whenever a friendly Canadian addressed us in French beyond the greeting “Bonjour.” Then we were forced to sheepishly admit we were not versed in their language. I almost created an international incident when I tried to pay for a beverage with a Canadian dollar bill which apparently had been out of circulation since 1987 (replaced by the dollar coin). After much fussing on the part of the young cashier, the man in line behind me stepped up to the counter and explained the bill and offered to buy my beverage for me. Quite a neighborly thing to do! Merci!

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Highlights of the day were walking through Mont Royal, eating an amazing lunch at a french restaurant at the Historic Hotel Nelligan, not to be topped by our dinner poutine (french fries covered in gravy) dinner. Overall a fantastic journey, wearing my shoes thin, wrinkling my passport, and practicing my "Merci beaucoup".

New York City
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The final stop on our journey, the grand city of New York, central hub of all things art, culture and design in the US. We stayed off the tourist path this time and headed straight for the Whitney Art Museum. At Whitney we studied up on Buckminster Fuller, the great modern renaissance man, and got turned around by Paul McCarthy, best described as a performance artist who creates perceptual disorientation by spinning mirrors, rooms, and slamming doors.

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Then, on to MoMA, we gawked at the normal assortment of paintings from greats like Picasso, deKooning, Dali, and of course NYC’s own Warhol. I was completely shocked upon entering one room when one wall was completely covered with 3 large panels of thickly layered paint piled in globs that accumulated to form one panoramic scene…Monet’s waterlilies. However spectacular this was for me, seeing my childhood idol’s ultimate masterpiece inches from my face, I was also very disappointed. Monet painted his waterlily scene as a COMPLETE panorama in the round, meant to be endless and seamless. Now museums have broken that continuity, and with it, that feeling of being enveloped in the scene. I was long awaiting the day I would travel to Givery, France and see the waterlily panorama in its original form as Monet intended. Now, seeing it half complete, took away that magic. Maybe there is still hope and someday it will return to its native land a complete unit, and you can bet I will be first in line.

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In addition to the art, we indulged in many other NY favorites like pizza at Grimaldis, cheesecake, and bagels. We took every form of transportation available, subway, taxi, train and walked miles and miles through the streets of SOHO, Greenwich Village, and Williamsburg. We walked through flea markets and old Bob Dylan haunts, through ritzy Manhattan streets, and dipped our toes in the east river. Thanks to Curtis and Lydia our NYC tour guide team extraordinaries!

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As a designer, I was thrilled to learn that design expert/celebrity Steven Heller and blog pioneer Jeffery Zeldman would be speaking at a book reading for the collection “Field Tested Books” produced by Coudal Partners of Chicago. I was stoked, I had my pitch to Steven Heller rehearsed, my business cards in hand. The event was held at a rooftop bar just feet from the Williamsburg bridge. We arrived just on time, and were disappointed to see a small crowd (of about 20) had already gathered and filled up the only part of the bar from which the speakers would be visible. I settled in to the nearest spot I could, directly behind a water feature. When the program began I found not only could I not see the speakers, but due to the rushing water, could also not hear. Not to be dissuaded, I squeezed into a corner, climbed onto a chair, and through a palm tree, took the above photo of Steven Heller, then promptly finished my glass of red wine and left. Sigh, maybe next time.